Professional software development, amateur BMW tinkering, old arcade game stuff


Taito Rastan arcade pcb repair

After working on pcbs with no self-tests for a while it was quite refreshing for this one to say exactly what was wrong with it – ‘COLOR RAM ERROR’.  The two color RAMs are located next to the PC040DA customs which are the digital to analog convertors for each of the RGB channels.  A logic probe showed that the lower RAM had stuck outputs.  Replaced this chip and the board was perfect.

Note that although the board has 2018-35 silkscreened on it (35ns response time RAM) the RAM installed was actually 45ns which works fine.

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Data East Gate of Doom arcade pcb repair

Board initially seemed dead, no rgb video or sync output at all.  Logic probe showed that there was actually some CPU activity, but a lot of the graphics chips had no clock signal.

Attempt 1

Probing some TTL around the graphics crystal revealed a LS75 chip that seemed to have a stuck output.  This is a latch that outputs both Q and ‘not Q’ for input D.  The logic probe shows both D and Q pulsing, but ~Q was stuck low.  Replaced with another chip and it behaved exactly the same.  I have to assume ~Q is intentionally grounded out somewhere on the board and isn’t used.


Attempt 2

I decided to trace out what controls the sync signal on the board.  The path runs from the edge connector to the diode at FB4, then the resistor at R13, then the LS04 chip @ L11.  The LS04 is used as a double invertor and the input comes from the custom graphics chip 55.

There are no schematics for Gate of Doom online, but there are for Desert Assault which is from the same era and also uses the 55 custom.  This shows the same setup with sync coming from pin 157 then a double inversion, so it seems to be the same design.  The schematics show the inputs to the custom – 14MHz clock to pin 11 – this was present and correct, reset on pin 15, again tested ok.  Various +5V lines also tested fine.  So unfortunately it seemed the custom chip was not working.


Attempt 3

All of the other inputs to the graphics custom chip 55 come from the PAL’s on the board.  And they run hot – a couple quickly shooting up to 43C – so I decided to replace them all with GAL’s.  I didn’t really expect much from this, as the Data East PAL’s of this era often run very hot, and I’ve never seen a failed one.  Indeed this had no effect, but the GAL’s do run much cooler.


Attempt 4

Examined the custom 55 again – applying some horizontal force to the pins revealed a handful of them moving – therefore not making good connection to the pads on the board.  Really I should have noticed this before, so I reflowed the solder with a hot iron on the pins to stick them to the pads again.  Success!  Everything now working 100%, including sound.  So even though the sync line was connected, some other control signals to the custom chip must have been disconnected.

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Data East Crude Buster (Two Crude) arcade PCB repair

This is actually a pcb from the UKVac ‘Kent Raid’ (see, interesting to know the history of a pcb and this one sat abandoned for over 20 years.


When powered on green garbage was displayed and that’s about it – no signs of life.  I tested the main RAM with a logic probe – the address pins were pulsing, as were the write enable and output enable pins, but the data lines remained stuck.  That’s a good sign the CPU is trying to do something but the RAM is dead – so I replaced the two chips (64K sram – TMM2063) with another two from a parts board.  Now I had some corrupt movement on screen, but it was also consistent corruption on every boot, so I was hopeful the game logic was actually running underneath the corruption.


Probing some more RAM chips in the same way revealed two dead 16K sram chips – these are the red and blue palette RAMs – so replacing them game full colour corruption.  The audio CPU RAM appeared ok with the logic probe, but when I piggy-backed another 64K sram on top and hit the coin switch sound & music played, so I knew for sure the audio RAM was bad, but also the main CPU was running properly now.

Logic probe on the 4 ram chips near the custom tilemap asic showed address and data lines pulsing, but after removing them from the board they all tested bad.  At this point I had no 64K sram left so I removed 4 256K srams from a dead Run N Gun board and used them instead.  The pinouts between 64K and 256K are identical except for the extra 2 address lines – so as long as you make sure these lines are tied high or low it will work (I soldered little jumper wires onto the bottom of the board to tie the lines high).  Success – all tilemap graphics now working, but still no sprites.

With all the other bad RAM on the board, bad spriteram was likely – many Data East games actually have a setup where there are two copies of spriteram.  The main CPU writes to one set, then when complete sets a flag for hardware to copy it to the second set, that the sprite ASIC reads out of.  I assume the reason for this design was to avoid contention between the CPU writing and the ASIC reading the same memory.  All chips tested bad when removed from the board.  When replaced sprites came back, but were obviously corrupt.

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At this point I spent quite a lot of time triple checking all points I’d soldered on the new RAM, then checking for bad pins on the sprite ASIC, or any problems in the TTL that copies between the two spriterams.  It’s clear the player sprite was ‘almost’ correct, but had a corrupt layer on top of it. Eventually I unsoldered the large sprite mask ROMs to check if they were corrupt, but the checksums matched the MAME set.  When I booted the board with those ROMs missing though, the corrupt bit planes remained and suddenly it was clear what was going on.  The output enables for the second set of sprite roms were all stuck on – so whenever the main ROMs were active data from the second set was superimposed on top.  The custom sprite ASIC (chip 52) has a 32 bit combined data and address bus.  On one cycle it latches the desired address into external TTL, then on the next cycle it activates the sprite ROMs to read 32 bits of data.  The TTLs for the lower 16 address bits were fine, but the top 4 bits are controlled by a Fujitsu LS375N which had stuck outputs when tested with the logic probe.  This chip was replaced and all sprites were correct.

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Technos WWF Superstars arcade PCB Repair

Two different boards, both very clean with no physical damage.  One booted to corruption, the other to a solid white screen.  Logic probe showed the outputs on the palette RAM were dead on the second board, so when replaced it also booted to corruption like the first one.

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The logic probe seemed to the show the 68000 CPU was not getting a clock signal so I probed the chips near the crystal oscillator and removed them from the board with a heat gun for external testing (but they tested fine).  Strangely the game worked when I replaced the chip – that’s good but why?  I then also found the second board would sometimes boot if I flexed the PCB near the crystal.  My only theory is bad solder joints on the crystal that were fixed when the heat gun was used.  The second board also boots consistently after re-doing the solder around the crystal even though it looked fine.

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So board 1 now works 100% with sound.  Board 2 boots but had some doubled up sprites at first (fixed by reseating the connectors between the two layers) and no sound.  The sound amp seems to be working, but at least one problem seems to be the YM3014 DAC chip.  The logic probe shows pulsing on the digital inputs, but the voltmeter shows no movement on the analog outputs (unlike the working board).  Right now I don’t have a spare to check.

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Atari Asteroids / Wells 19V2000 HV Diode

There’s a wealth of information on old black & white vector monitors on the internet, so when the picture on my Asteroids ‘bloomed’ up much larger than it should be and became unstable I quickly found tips suggesting the high voltage diode was at fault.  However.. most of this information was actually written in Usenet times – text only documents!  I couldn’t actually find a picture anywhere of where this diode is.

So for anyone else searching, I’ve circled it in red in the photo.  I used a diode marked ‘VARO H598′ bought from Ebay which is not the original part, but comes recommended as a replacement, and indeed it works perfectly.

I should also point out you should make sure the monitor CRT is fully discharged before going near this part as the high voltage can be present even when the monitor is powered off.  Info on that can be found elsewhere on the internet.

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Midnight Resistance arcade cabinet restore

Cab wasn’t terrible when I got it – two chunks of wood missing, lot of mold and dust, but the wood and vinyl fundamentally ok, so I decided to paint it rather than re-apply vinyl or laminate.

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Tried out ‘wood’ Bondo rather than regular Bondo to patch up scuffs and missing pieces.  I used some spare t-molding as a guide to fill the missing chunk at the control panel, worked out quite well.  Also filled in the holes from those big ugly lock bars, not putting them back on.

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Some painting, then sanding, then more painting..  Plus new t-molding all-around, and replaced faded marquee with a reproduction.


I swapped out the plain joystick tops with some burn marks for some Data East logo tops I’ve had sitting around for a while.  They aren’t perfect but better.


Reproduction control panel overlay added and NOS side-art that I’ve been hoarding for a while.  Original bezel remains even though it has some stains and a rip.  Might change it out later.

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Coin door was fully disassembled, some rust cleaned up, repainted and new locks added.


End result!  It’s not a 10/10 maybe an 8 out of 10, but good enough :)




Capcom Gun.Smoke PCB repair

This is a bootleg PCB though a well made one with excellent image quality.  The problem is that the buildings have corrupt colours.  This is a rather strange fault as Gun.Smoke only has 1 layer of tiled graphics and all of the other tiles were fine.  This rules out almost all potential RAM or TTL faults (maybe with the exception of some of the palette circuitry), as those components are clearly working fine with the other tiles.  From the look of the graphics I suspected a couple of bit-planes for the tiles had disappeared – because each tile only has 4 colours per block, instead of 16.  MAME confirmed the tile ROMs were laid out as 4 pairs with each ROM contributing 2bpp and the corrupt buildings were within the first pair.


The missing 2bpp theory was confirmed when I ran the board with ROM ’13′ removed – the buildings completely disappeared – so this means that ’13′ was working and it’s partner ’9′ wasn’t contributing anything.  However all ROMS read ok in the reader and matched the MAME set exactly.  The logic probe lit up for all pins on ROM ’9′ so the socket seemed good.  Next theory was the chip enable (/CE) logic was faulty and ROM ’9′ was not being asked to output any data.  However examination of the traces showed /CE was linked for each pair of ROMs in the set (as they always output at once to give make 4bpp output) so could not be that.


I then burned a new eprom with ROM ’9′ data from MAME, placed it on the board and everything worked!  So the fault was definitely with the ROM even though it read fine on PC.  The only theory I have is that the original ROM ’9′ is more susceptible to low voltage than the others.  There is quite a bit of voltage drop from the +5V on the main board to the video board.



Time Soldiers arcade PCB repair

Bought as a non-working board for $9.99 – the most obvious problem is that no CPU was present so clearly the game wasn’t going to do much without that!  With a replacement 68000 in hand (again from Ebay for only a few $) the game booted to garbage.

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A logic probe on the CPU address and data lines showed zero activity, so the CPU clearly wasn’t doing anything.  Power and ground tested as good.  The reset and halt lines on the CPU were pulsing, so it seemed something on the board was trying to kick the CPU into life.  Testing the CLK pin on the 68000 showed it to be stuck low.  I traced out where this pin went and it connects to the output (Q) of a LS74 next to the oscillator.   The logic probe seemed to show this chip had failed, as a CLK was pulsing on the LS74 input, but the outputs remained stuck (one output feeds back into a LS74 input, so the output should toggle hi/lo every clock in order to form the 68K clock).

Tested off-board – failed – replacement from Dragonninja parts board soldered in – board boots right up!  Quickest TTL level fix I’ve ever done.

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At first I thought there was a graphics problem as the title screen was corrupt – though it’s strange all of the other screens were perfect.  Then I remembered I’d seen this a long time ago in MAME..  If you boot the English language ROMs with the Japanese dipswitch enabled the title screen is corrupt (because it expects the Japanese character ROMs).

Unfortunately this board is stuck in Japanese – because the dip-switch isn’t being read by the software.  A previous owner has removed resistor packs for the dip and the jamma inputs, presumably to repair something else!

That shouldn’t be too hard a fix – to be continued.






Pacman arcade PCB repair

Pacman did not appear, and two of the ghosts did not appear.  Additionally the text at the top of the screen (Hi Score) and the bottom (Credit) were corrupt.  A tip on the KLOV forum suggested this was likely to be the VRAM addresser daughterboard.  Nothing looked wrong with a logic probe so I decided to remove the LS157 and LS86 chips as I have a plentiful supply from a Dragonninja parts board.


As it turns out I didn’t even get to the LS86′s as one of the 157′s tested bad when removed, and replacing it solved the problem!

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Viper Phase 1 / Seibu SPI arcade pcb repair

Sound would go quiet after a few minutes, and it seemed like different elements of the sound would have incorrect volumes (drum track, music, explosions).  I think that’s because the sound chip outputs multiple channels which are mixed externally before the stereo amp but didn’t look too much into it.

Instead, I just swapped out all the capacitors in the audio section – I think all are 100uF, 25V.  This seemed to fix all the audio problems.

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